Friday, 29 March 2013

A visit to Nawabi Lucknow!



The evening of March 9th 2013…
It was my first long distance train journey on an official visit. The moment I entered the Chandigarh railway station from where my journey would start, I went into deep nostalgia as I remembered the travels to my hometown Kerala. The familiar voice of announcers followed with their melancholy rings reminded me of my childhood days when I would be seen walking along with my parents and tightly clutching the fingers of my mother so that I don’t get carried away by the waves of the rushing crowd!
Times were different, I was now an adult but the feelings were still the same thanks to the railways announcements which haven’t changed much since the last two or three decades. And once entering the platform the voice of the prominent train engine whistles added yet another shot at my memorabilia!
Next day at early morning the train entered the state of Uttar Pradesh and made a brief stopover at a small station. A wave of patriotic excitement ran into me upon seeing the name of the station. It was on August 9, 1925 at ‘Kakori’ where a train carrying the British treasury was looted by freedom fighters Ram Prasad Bismil, Chandrasekhar Azad, Ashfaqullah Khan alongwith others. The verses of those revolutionaries started echoing in my mind as I got off the train to feel the air of the place which those great people once breathed! 
                                                                                                                                                                    
‘Sarfaroshi ki tamanna ab hamare dil men hai’
‘Dekhna hai zor kitna bazuye kaatil men hai’
‘Waqt aane de bata denge tujhe aye aasman’
‘Hum abhi se kya batayen kya hamare dil men hai!’

(The desire for sacrifice is now in our hearts
We shall now see what strength there is in the boughs of the enemy

When the time comes, we shall show thee, O heaven
For why should we tell thee now, what lurks in our hearts?)


The train reached Lucknow at 9.30 am around half an hour late than the scheduled arrival. I called up my colleague Muzaffar who had arrived a night ago and was waiting for me at a hotel.
I was fascinated by the architecture of the historic Lucknow station at Charbagh (built in 1923) which itself symbolized Mughal and Persian influences. Rooftops in shapes of domes reminded you of Nawab’s Mahals (castles) like the one seen in the comic series of Arabian Nights!




The hotel was at Hazratganj Road around 15-20 minutes drive from the railway station. I finally met Muzaffar at the breakfast table of the Hotel Restaurant. Again the ambience of the place got me curious as I looked at the walls surrounding the dining area. There were portraits of all Nawabs of Lucknow or the Awadh Empire of which the latter was the capital. But, there were two things which struck me hard during my observation. First, why was there a portrait of only one woman, probably a princess or queen amongst all Nawabs. She must be some one very special to be given such respect even in a male dominated monarchy of Awadh regime. Secondly, the heavy embroidery of the clothes worn by a Nawab in the portrait right next to hers. He looked more like a Kathak dancer than a king. Hence, once back in my hotel room I opened my laptop and did a Google search. My fascination grew stronger as the search results popped up on the screen. I recognized almost every Nawab I saw in the portraits of the dining hall.

Nawab Saadat Ali Khan I - The first Nawab of the Awadh Empire











Nawab Nasir-ud-din Ali Haider



The walls of the dining hall resurrecting those glorious days



Nawab Amjad Ali Shah




Nawab Wajid Ali ShahThe last Nawab of Awadh who was thrown out of rule by the British when they annexed his kingdom in 1856. He was sent to exile in Calcutta (Kolkata) where he was forced to live on an yearly pension given by the British. There were many interesting facts surrounding his colorful life and a charming personality which I can’t wait to tell but before that I need to mention the woman who could easily be a role model or an idol for the women of India. The first wife of the Nawab better known as Begum Hazrat Mahal (Begum is the Urdu word for queen). The only queen who was as popular as the Nawabs.

Begum Hazrat Mahal was never a bequeathed royal. She had a fascinating story. The Nawab was a passionate lover... visit my travel blog www.mystic-vagabond.blogspot.com for more

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